Masa, Super Typhoon Alert and a Close Shave

Textiles at the Flea Market 

Okonomiyaki on the grill!

Five-story pagoda of Tō-ji   

Umbrella Rack at National Museum

Hot Chocolate Break at the Ritz

Textiles in the Gion

The Gion

Close Shave Please

Please pick a Sake Cup

Eating soup with chopsticks

Seasonal Seafood

Rice with Salmon Eggs, Miso Soup

Fig Jelly with Sabayon Sauce

We are waiting for Typhoon Lan. It is now classified as a Super Typhoon! We won’t know till after it hits Japan tomorrow night if our travel plans will have to be altered. We will just wait it out.

It has been a steady light rain in Kyoto. It doesn’t appear to stop anyone from going about their life. One grabs an umbrella and heads out. I am very grateful that Cathy insisted I buy Asolo Hiking Shoes. They are totally waterproof. I have been walking for two days in the rain and my feet have stayed dry. The have a great tread for slippery pavement. They get my wholehearted endorsement. I am also glad I splurged for the Issey Miyake rain coat in Tokyo. It has kept the rest of me dry! Enough plugs, on to the day!

Dressed for rain we headed out with Masa to the monthly Kyoto Flea market. We have known Masa for years and he is a wonderful resource in Kyoto. He is a very sensitive soul, an architect, extremely knowledgeable about all Japanese Art and Religion and a wonderful person to spend time with. We joined the multitudes, each carrying an umbrella as we strolled in the rain through stall after stall of interesting objects. Masa was extremely helpful in assisting us as we talked to different sellers. We found some very nice things.

One of my goals on this trip was to eat Okonomiyaki. Think of it as a Japanese version of Egg Foo Young. I love it! I didn’t know how I would fit it into our schedule (we usually don’t eat much of a lunch), but I knew somehow, I would eat it. Walking in the rain, I smelled it! And there was a stand making Okonomiyaki. Lots of people were lined up I quickly joined the queue, and got my Okonomiyaki fix at the flea market. Who would have guessed? Masa mentioned that when he was a child they had an Okonomiyaki grill in his house and his mother often made it for him for breakfast.

The flea market is right next to the Five-story pagoda of Tō-ji which is the tallest wooden tower in Japan.

After leaving the flea market we went to The Kyoto National Museum to see an amazing exhibit: "National Treasures: Masterpieces of Japan". Japan recognizes certain artworks as National Treasures. They are relatively few in number and exceptional in quality. Think of it as the best of the best of all art in Japan, gathered for this one show. Not all the art was made in Japan, some pieces are from China or other Asian countries. The oldest vessel was from 3000BC and it was amazing. Unfortunately, no pictures were allowed. The exhibit  was packed with people. Most objects had viewers 3 deep. Masa is intimately familiar with the art work (there were over 300 objects on display) including giant Buddhas, beautiful painted scrolls, tea ceremony bowls, lacquerware, armor, etc. Masa knew exactly what objects we should spend time viewing. He has the knowledge to explain in depth what we were seeing. It was a real treat.

We returned to the Ritz with Masa to drop off our purchases and have a warm cup of hot chocolate. There was a Koto, a traditional Japanese string instrument on display at the hotel. A Kimono clad woman then sat down and played the most wonderful music. I captured a portion of her music on video.

Click to play the music 

It was then off in the rain for the three of us as we went to the Gion’s Antique district. The Gion looks like the Kyoto of the past. Dark wooden two-story buildings with sliding doors, women in Kimonos. Antique textiles, ceramics, etc. We walked the streets and if we saw a store that interested us we would pop in for a look. We eventually made it to a house that Masa has almost finished renovating in Gion. He will rent it out as an Airbnb. Keep that in mind if you are ever visiting Kyoto! After touring his house, we returned to the Ritz. I went to a nearby barber for an excellent shave.

After cleaning up, and cocktails at the hotel we went to a restaurant that Masa had highly recommended: Gion Yata.  This restaurant in the Gion was a delight. After removing our shoes and being told to slide the door open and enter, we were seated in a large room at a counter. Luckily for us, we didn't need to sit on crossed legs, but rather our legs could dangle into a footwell. You are then presented an assortment of Sake Cups. You choose the one you would like to use for the dinner (assuming you are ordering Sake not wine). The food was excellent, no meat, several courses of fish.  Masa was correct about the restaurant. Like most Japanese restaurants, soup is served with chopsticks, not spoons. You pick out the good stuff in the bowl with the chopsticks, then pick up the bowl with both hands and sip the broth. Once again on this trip we were reminded how the wasabi we get in America pales in comparison to the freshly ground wasabi in a Japanese restaurant. There is a world of difference!

We returned to the Ritz and wondered what tomorrow would bring.